Jay expected fried chicken – what he got was an avalanche of lawyers’ letters.
Then in the midst of all this, a less-than-enthusiastic review of Jinjuu by Fay Maschler, veteran critic for the London Evening Standard, is removed from the paper’s website. As a restaurant critic of some years’ standing, I can say that’s unusual. I am told that Joo wrote a letter of complaint about the review, which was forwarded to the Evening Standard. Will Gore, deputy managing editor of the Evening Standard, said the review had been taken down while Joo’s complaint was investigated. “I’ve now gone back to her to try and find a final resolution to the debate,” Gore said.
As I understand it, the letter is basically a long complaint that Maschler doesn’t appear to understand Korean food; that, for example, Korean fried chicken is meant to have a hard batter coating like hers does. Perhaps. It seems to me that this merely proves “authentic” really is not the same as “good”.